In both cases, you need to calibrate (or micro adjust) your camera and lenses to work perfectly together. This can also result in misinterpretation by the focusing sensor. There’s also a chance that some parts in your lens are not exactly aligned in the same way as the factory standard would require. Your final photo will show a shift in focus: it will be blurred where it should have been sharp. In this case, something that was in focus on the AF sensor will not be focus on the imaging sensor. The problem arises when the two sensors are misaligned. Take a look at our graphic that shows a simplified diagram of a DSLR’s insides. Then, when you take a picture, the mirrors rise and suddenly all light hits the primary (imaging) sensor. It’s important to see that this process doesn’t check if the resulting shift actually places the subject in focus, because it cannot, by design.
It uses a technology called phase detection. When the you half-press the shutter button to autofocus, the secondary sensor interprets the light and instructs the lens to focus in a certain way. A portion of the incoming light hits the secondary sensor, and the rest travels up through the viewfinder to your eyes. There are also mirrors that direct the light either to our eye or to the imaging sensor.
In a DSLR mechanism, there are (at least) two separate sensors: one for imaging, and a secondary one for autofocusing. The first thing you need to at least vaguely understand is how autofocusing works in DSLRs. Why Do You Need to Calibrate Your Lenses?
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